The Dirt on Nicky

258

Maybe we should talk about some of those weeds you’re pulling. We are entering jungle season in our part of the Ozarks, and a gardener who misses two or three days of garden duties (work, golf, the river, hiking in the woods and other nuisances) might not find the same well-kept happy place she or he left 72 hours prior. In my garden space, the wild is scrambling to reclaim its old home, and, truth be told, I was not here first, so for me to claim garden space on a rocky hillside, I must accept the presence of my predecessors.

Important to know is that some of the interlopers, besides being ambitious reseeders, are nutritious and tasty. In this space two weeks ago, we told the tale of purslane, the Olga Korbut of reseeders. Nobody does it better. I keep a few purslanes here and there because they supposedly draw up minerals from below and make them available for my vegetables. Here, however, is another prolific reseeder that is probably already in your garden and maybe deserves a spot for a while.

Lamb’s quarters, also called pigweed, is in the chenopodium or goosefoot family which includes quinoa and huauzontli. It is also a cousin of amaranth and is found on every continent except Antarctica. It sprouted readily in my northern California gardens, and it is ever present in my Ozarks garden as well. A plant can grow four feet tall or more unimpeded and establish a strong root ball which will intimidate nearby plants. Therefore some growers, especially commercial farms, see it as an invasive pest. That is the bad part.

However, that healthy root system also brings to the surface nutrients and minerals from below to help re-energize depleted soil.

The newsworthy item about lamb’s quarters is it leaves which are a tasty and nutritious potherb. Folks who study such things claim these leaves are loaded with more protein, iron, calcium and B vitamins than spinach or cabbage, plus you don’t have to order seeds. It is going to be there. A gardener’s only challenge is deciding how many plants remain.

It was grown as an agricultural crop by Native Americans before they grew corn. One variety is widely cultivated commercially in northern India and used in breads, soups, stews and even an alcoholic beverage, yet Americans casually toss lamb’s quarters on the compost heap. In Europe, it was a revered part of the diet from Neolithic times through the centuries until spinach became more popular during Shakespeare’s high school years.

The plants produce thousands of seeds, and Europeans figured out they could make their grains go farther by mixing in lamb’s quarters seeds. Nutritionists now know the seeds are high in minerals, vitamin A and protein, but how did the Vikings know that? No wonder they discovered Canada.

If you don’t have spinach or swiss chard for your omelet or casserole, try handfuls of lamb’s quarters leaves. Many south of the border recipes call for lamb’s quarters. Mix it in with your pinto beans just before they are done. Like spinach, lamb’s quarters contains a bit of oxalic acid, but cooking neutralizes it.

Foragers should avoid lamb’s quarters growing in heavily sprayed areas because it will absorb pesticides. Also avoid plants growing in or near manure because they will absorb pathogens, and we already have too many invisible scary things going around nowadays.

The point is a couple plants carefully maintained might make a graceful and nutritious addition to a corner of the garden. At some point they will get too tall and begin to make seeds, and that is the time to add their minerals and history to your compost. It’s all good.