By Becky Gillette – Susanne and Kent Long had a front seat during a very historic event witnessed by few Americans. The Longs of Eureka Springs happened to be participating in a People-to-People Cruise to Cuba Dec. 2-9, dates that coincided with the funeral of one of the world’s controversial former political leaders, Fidel Castro.
“The cruise was just ahead of the opening of the country to American cruise ships and airlines so we had an opportunity to see it as it has been for the last fifty years under Fidel Castro,” Susanne said. “Our ports of call were Santiago de Cuba, (Castro’s birthplace), Havana and Cienfuego. Our first stop happened to be on the exact day Castro’s remains were brought to Santiago de Cuba for burial. His ashes had been on a nine-day journey across Cuba, originating in Havana, then transported through each city. The ashes were in a glass container aboard a green Russian jeep, visible to all.”
Cubans’ reactions to the death of the revolutionary who ruled the country for nearly 50 years was different than many Americans might have been led to expect. As the Longs disembarked from their ship in Santiago, they found streets lined with people waiting for the arrival of Castro’s remains.
“There were many flags, posters and signs praising him,” Susanne said. “In the town square there was a giant video screen with scenes of early days from the revolution and of Castro making speeches to large crowds. Also in the square were billboards with photos primarily from the revolution. The people that we met were genuinely sad at his passing. They see him more as the revolutionary leader who freed them from the tyranny of Batista.”
Although many Cubans believe Castro’s civil rights abuses and property theft are legendary, this was not talked about. Long said corruption, especially the black market, is generally accepted as a way of life.
“It is also important to remember that Castro was in power for so long, many Cubans do not know any other way of life,” Susanne said.
Americans might say that Cuba is Communist, but Susanne says Cuban life is based on a government of socialism. In recent times, Cubans have been allowed to own homes and small businesses. “They are moving towards capitalism, but in small increments,” she said. “The Cuban government is anxious to open up to tourism. The primary industry in Cuba has been cigars and rum, so tourism will bring much needed money into the country.
“The most beautiful architecture is from the Spanish Colonial era. Although beautiful, it’s falling into terrible disrepair because there has not been money to restore buildings. They have done extensive restoration in old downtown Havana for the tourists to see, and this is quite beautiful.
“The average Cuban income is $20 per month, so they have little money to spend and you will not find any retail stores in the various neighborhoods. They use vouchers to pay for food. However, they have managed to make things work with a healthy black market. Also, many Cubans have relatives abroad who send them clothing and other needed/desired items and funds.”
Susanne said that while poor, Cubans have some advantages that many Americans would envy:
- Education is free all the way up to a doctorate. Children go to school from eight in the morning until five in the afternoon.
- Medical care, including plastic surgery, is free. Prescription medicines are a dollar per item.
- There is a literacy rate of 99.8 percent.
- You will not find homeless people in the streets of Cuba, although the quality of housing would not be considered acceptable in the United States.
- The government takes care of the disabled.
- In general, it is very safe there. You can go out at night without fear for your safety.
“We were fortunate enough to be provided daily educational briefings on the people, the culture, the history of Cuba and the towns that we were to visit,” Susanne said. “Kent and I were also fortunate in that our cabin attendant, Yaneya, is Cuban and was born and raised in Havana. Yaneya owns her own home and lives with her mother and sister. She told us that the Cuban people are a happy people even though they would all like to have more money and more in the way of designer clothes. In general, it is as though the Cuban people we met look for their happiness inside themselves instead of through external, material things.
“There were good and bad, true and false, right and wrong aspects to all that we experienced. It is primarily a matter of perception.