Chicory– is bitter better?
In the spring, I was given a mishmash of seeds that I had not grown before, which was exciting, but I wish I had noted somewhere what I planted, in particular a kind of chicory which is flourishing now. I have grown many kinds of chicories through the years, but this one stands out, even after our recent mid-20° night.
There are wild and domesticated varieties of chicory, and they are related to dandelions. Their leaves are used in salads, but Mediterranean cuisine finds a surprising number of ways to use them. Chicory and dandelion leaves are bitter to different degrees, but the bitterness is the benefit. The components which cause the bitterness aid digestion, assist in absorption of other nutrients, and detoxify the liver.
Chicory is closely related to endive (same genus, different species) and their names are often interchanged. First-century BC Roman poet, Horace, mentioned he was sustained by “olives, endives and mallows,” and he was not alone. A traditional Albanian pastry called byrek was filled with chicory leaves, and in Greece, chicory was used as a pie filler.
Chicory is a source of inulin, an important dietary fiber, plus it is full of vitamin A and B-carotene. Its components help protect against age-related macular degeneration disease.
There are three primary kinds of chicory, each with several varieties. Radicchio is a red-leaved chicory which forms a tight head like Bibb lettuce, and it can be a perennial. In Europe, it is common to cut off the leaves at some point and cover the root so that it will regenerate new leaves after winter weather.
Radicchio varieties are named for their regions of origin. Treviso radicchio is similar in appearance to romaine lettuce with the typical red radicchio color. Rossa di Verona resembles a small red head of pointed cabbage. Chioggia radicchio has round heads like cabbage with green leaves that turn red. All varieties prefer cooler weather.
Radicchio roots, like all chicories, can be dried, roasted and ground into a non-caffeinated coffee additive or substitute.
Leaf chicories include endives and escaroles in a variety of shapes and colors. Dark green, light green, bright red and even yellow with white ribs and red speckles are some of the artistry you can see among chicories. The bitterness varies with each variety and with weather and soil constraints, and bitterness can be tempered by steaming or gently boiling.
Belgian endive, also called witloof (white leaf) chicory, has a different life cycle. At first, it resembles a dandelion (to which it is related) with serrated, pointy leaves. For centuries, farmers grew it for its root which was harvested and stored indoors before being dried, roasted and ground into a coffee substitute.
Then in the 19th century, a Belgian farmer realized his roots had sprouted, but the sprouts did not resemble the dandelion leaves he expected. Instead, he found small, whitish compact heads like little lettuce teardrops but with a delicate texture and flavor. These small heads became known as chicons, and soon enough, Belgian endive became a large industry. The United States imports $5 million worth annually.
A home gardener, can grow chicons by planting the witloof chicory seeds like other vegetables. Feed them for root growth, not leaves. Harvest the roots before the first frost and trim off side roots, shorten them to about eight-to-ten inches, and trim leaves to about an inch above the crown. Lay them on their sides for a couple months in sand or sawdust.
When it is time to “force” them, replant the roots away from light in a moderate temperature, keep lightly moist, and in three weeks or so, you’ll have tasty little chicons.
Dandelion greens are similar to leaf chicories and can be used in salad or stir fries. I am growing Italiko Rosso, a variety with red ribbed leaves 12 inches long, not bitter, and 25° nights did not bother them.