Two months from now…
The mid-October phase of early January seems to have passed which means colder weather for a while as we mosey toward spring. Gardeners are organizing their seed inventory–– not in a fidgeting way but the way a four-year old focuses and reverently thumbs back and forth through the new favorite book about the future.
“A dozen radishes twice a month!” we envision, and radishes are one of the first vegetables gardeners plant in spring. Percentage for frost drops considerably after mid-March but be prepared if you proceed regardless. Just keep your frost-protector strategy close by. No need to get ahead of yourself with tomatoes or peppers (though we all do it anyway), but some vegetables are equipped to handle the last few cold mornings.
Kale, arugula and other brassicas, for example. Kale is intelligent. It knows to increase its amino acid inventory as a buffer against the effects of colder temperatures plus makes it a bit sweeter. Kale eaters appreciate kale adaptability.
Start a few kale, broccoli or cabbage plants in pots next month and they should be ready by mid-March to transplant into the soil you have meticulously prepared during winter. Cold snaps might occur, so, as a bit of protection, I use old plastic jugs (called hats in my garden) over young transplants with straw or leaves piled up around the hats. You can also fashion sheets of plastic as covers in your own artistic way. Mustard, arugula, and Asian brassicas can also handle early spring. You probably never thought of arugula as tough.
Chard is as tough as arugula, so it can also go in early. Plant breeders in Switzerland recently created Vulcan, the first chard variety that is actually from Switzerland. Finally! Chard will make it through the summer with some care – enough water, an energy boost occasionally, and regular harvesting. Spinach prefers cooler weather, too, so when the spinach muse calls, pay attention. Spinach is ready to harvest in less than two months, so plant a dozen or so plants two weeks apart until late May, then wait ‘til mid-August and start again.
How much lettuce do you need at a time? Every two or three weeks, plant what you will need. Start a handful of seeds in a protected place in late February if you have one, transplant into your well-prepared soil when they’re ready, start eating in less than a month. Chicory varieties will handle early spring temperatures, but they struggle with hot weather. I always try some anyway. I’m fearless.
There is reason they are called snow peas. The hardy vines will climb your trellis in the cold, but a late hard frost might knock them down. Sugar snap peas are similar, just plumper with larger peas. Both have edible pods and were the reason my toddler son first frequented the garden. In Japan, March 8 is Sayaendo Day, a day to celebrate snow peas. Maybe that’s when I should plant my first crop this year.
Radishes came from Asia, are small and round or long and skinny, colorful, perfect for cooler soil temps, and they mature quickly. Think about how many you want at a time, and plant that many every two weeks into autumn. Turnips are similar, just bigger and slower to mature, but early spring is the time to plant them. Beets and carrots, too. I plant beets twice in spring and again in late summer. Carrot seeds usually take longer to sprout, so I mix in a few radish seeds to mark the row.
Onion sets can go in very early. Just cover lightly with leaves or straw. Long-day onion varieties do better north of 35th North latitude. Eureka Springs is approximately 36°24’ North latitude. Maybe we should opt for intermediate varieties. Leek seeds also handle early spring soil well, but, depending on variety, leeks take three-to-five months to mature. They’re worth it.
It doesn’t pay to start too early, but we try it anyway, and then there’s unpredictable weather, so do your best. Our world needs our best.