Planting potatoes early
“Oops!” was the first word of the report by Lou, also known as Al, head of the Potato Subcommittee, to the Food Storage Council. “My crew and I must speak the truth about the bowl of potatoes that got all sprouty and unfit to eat. We were neglectful and we are responsible. Folks who do not tell the truth are not worth listening to, and that is our truth.
“However, we have a plan to make amends,” and Lou, also known as Al, went on for 600 words detailing the plan.
He pointed out potatoes can stand being planted early. They will begin to sprout stems out of their eyes when the soil temperature is at least 45 degrees. That’s why waiting until early spring is best. “Nevertheless,” our narrator proclaimed, “we have a situation in which these homegrown potatoes started sprouting a month too soon, so action is at hand.”
The plan was simple though risky. The spuds were way overdue for planting, so the project was essentially an experiment to see what would happen. The process would be the same as if they were being planted a month later.
First, the soil gets a quick cultivating to loosen it and remove the chickweed and purple dead nettles. Potatoes prefer slightly acidic soil, but the only soil amendment handy for the subcommittee was a balanced powderized mixture of important elements ready to help, so they would spread it over the soil and gently mix it in.
(Interesting note: Until mid-19th century, the word “spud” meant the kind of small spade used to harvest tubers, so clever farmers simply adopted it for potatoes.)
Planting the tubers would be easy because the soil was loose and well-maintained. Lou, also known as Al, would dig a hole at least five inches deep, place the tuber in the hole with the sprouts pointing upward, and carefully guard the fragile stems while refilling the hole. Same process would be repeated every 12-15 inches in that bed.
The subcommittee was well aware there would be frosts yet to come. Therefore, they mulched heavily with leaves and straw over the bed to protect the freshly planted tubers. Regarding the extra mulch, Lou, also known as Al, told his team, “It takes two to tango, so we should mulch like a mariachi.”
They were also relying on the fact that potatoes can handle minor frosts, but it is best to cover the early emerging foliage (called haulms) somehow if a cold spell is predicted. The tuber below knows to re-grow foliage if the late frosts cause minor damage. The tuber wants to do its dang job, dang it!
The subcommittee also acknowledged none of them had planted potatoes in such a neglected condition, so the results would be unpredictable. Experiments are unpredictable, and that is why we call it science.
Usually, Lou, also known as Al, and his crew pay better attention and prepare potatoes for planting in the appropriate fashion. At least a couple weeks before a good time to plant, the potatoes to be planted are set in exposed light, and soon enough sprouting in the eyes will begin. A few days before planting, you need to chit your potatoes, which means cut the spuds between the sprouted eyes and lay the chitted pieces cut side down on a tray or surface. Soon, the cut area will callous over, and that’s a good thing. Potatoes smaller than a golf ball do not need to be chitted – plant them whole.
Another strategy for getting potatoes to mature sooner is to plant them in a container located in a sunny location. The soil in the container will warm faster but also dry out sooner. Watering regularly, but not too much, is what tubers expect from the gardener.
Lou, also known as Al, admitted potatoes are a dependable, easy crop for gardeners if the soil and moisture are right. It’s the gardeners who get distracted and busy, and that’s the truth.