All about arugula
Umberto the gardener whispered to himself about how loose the soil was, and easy to work. His hands were dirty and his intent was clean. He had just seeded arugula, his own particular strain, in front of golden peas on a coolish spring morning. Because of the early spring cool weather, Umberto seeded arugula’s fast-growing Asian cousin, Choy Sum, beside it.
As he stirred the soil and listened to tanager songs, Umberto’s imagination wondered how brassicas began and developed into so many varieties. He had eight varieties already in his garden, one of which had sprouted on its own. In fact, these arugula seeds came from a volunteer two years ago.
“I’m glad you are so curious,” the history of arugula replied. “Call me Ru, and allow me to elucidate.” Umberto nodded and sat on the pathway to soak up sunlight and listen.
Ru explained that brassicas evolved from a single ancestor plant in the northeast area of Africa around 24 million years ago, For reference, it was in the same general region in which only 4500 years ago humans built the pyramids. That ancestor plant evolved into two primary species, B. oleracea and B. rapa. Today the brassica family consists of more than 350 genera.
- oleracea spread around the Mediterranean and it is from that species we get savoy cabbage, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, kale, collards, cauliflower and many others. B. rapa is the mustard side of the family, and it migrated toward Asia. Pak choi, napa cabbage, red mustard, komatsuna, mizuna and turnips sit at the B. rapa table at the family reunions.
Arugula is listed as Eruca vescicaria. Radishes, another cousin, is known as Raphanus sativus. Though the scientific names differ, they are still invited when brassicas hold conventions. Arugula has always been popular in Mediterranean cultures. It is called oroth in II Kings 4:39. In a poem by Virgil, he indicates it excites sexual desires. Pliny the Rascal also explored the possibilities of arugula as an aphrodisiac, and though he offered no reliable proof, folks through the ages took him at his word, which shows folks who want to believe something do not ask for proof to make a truth.
Umberto’s truth was sitting in a garden pathway on a sunny spring morning was as good as it gets.
Ru said arugula has always been more popular in southern and central Europe than in England, although the United States has England to thank for not only the Beatles and Boodles gin but arugula. Early settlers brought it along with starlings and purslane. It has gained increased attention in the past fifty years as Americans expanded their food interests, although they are still frustratingly stubborn about other intolerances.
Arugula’s flavor is peppery and spicy like mustards, but also nutty. The rosette of leaves are mild when young but get stronger and even bitter as the plant matures. Early spring starts will mature by midsummer as 2.5-foot-tall plants with four-leafed flowers which produce bean-like seed pods.
Umberto envisioned letting one or two plants go through its entire life cycle and make seeds. Eventually, the gangly plants would need staking to stay upright, and the seed pods would soon enough become dry and rattle in the wind. The wind would also blow open the pods allowing seeds to scatter and sprout in surprising places. Umberto smiled at the possibility.
Ru mentioned that scientists have discovered the spicy flavor of arugula indicates the presence of compounds which prevent damage to cells and benefit eye health. Arugula is also a potent source of vitamins A and K.
Umberto’s seeds were from a variant plant which produced larger than usual leaves without lobes. Maybe he would have a new variety, maybe not. Regardless, spicy salads were in his future.